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Greg Liebig, CIAQT
Certified Home Inspector
B.S. Mechanical Engineering
WI License #1955-106
Certified Home Inspector
B.S. Mechanical Engineering
WI License #1955-106
Ice Dam Indicators
You will need to take a trip outside and look at your roof after
a snowfall. If you notice bare spots, that is an indication of a
"hot spot" usually caused by warm air from your home
escaping and heating up the underside of the roof. This can
be around skylights, chimneys, plumbing, and other roof
vents. There could be other areas but we'll get to that in a
bit. Another good indicator are those icicles hanging from
your gutters or soffits.
You will need to take a trip outside and look at your roof after
a snowfall. If you notice bare spots, that is an indication of a
"hot spot" usually caused by warm air from your home
escaping and heating up the underside of the roof. This can
be around skylights, chimneys, plumbing, and other roof
vents. There could be other areas but we'll get to that in a
bit. Another good indicator are those icicles hanging from
your gutters or soffits.
Well, it’s that time of year again in our wonderful northern climate. Snow covered roofs,
chestnuts roasting, and frost tickling your nose can make a beautiful White Christmas
but the beauty could be short lived if the temperatures start to rise near freezing. Water
could soon find its way down your mistletoe through your ceiling! These annoying leaks
are most likely caused by an ice dam.
chestnuts roasting, and frost tickling your nose can make a beautiful White Christmas
but the beauty could be short lived if the temperatures start to rise near freezing. Water
could soon find its way down your mistletoe through your ceiling! These annoying leaks
are most likely caused by an ice dam.
What Causes Ice Dams?
Ice dams form from the snow on your
roof melting and freezing over a
period of time. This could happen
quite quickly if most of the snow on
your roof is that really wet, heavy
kind.
Depending on your home, the
temperature outside could be well
below freezing when you notice the
drip in your ceiling or down your
walls. Ice dams are caused when the
snow on your roof melts and runs
down your roof. If the water has no
place to go, it will freeze usually at or
above your eaves.
This frozen mess will block any
further melting and water begins to
puddle at the dam caused by the ice.
When this happens, water will back
up under the shingles and find its
way into your home. This can cause
damage if it is not corrected.
Ice dams form from the snow on your
roof melting and freezing over a
period of time. This could happen
quite quickly if most of the snow on
your roof is that really wet, heavy
kind.
Depending on your home, the
temperature outside could be well
below freezing when you notice the
drip in your ceiling or down your
walls. Ice dams are caused when the
snow on your roof melts and runs
down your roof. If the water has no
place to go, it will freeze usually at or
above your eaves.
This frozen mess will block any
further melting and water begins to
puddle at the dam caused by the ice.
When this happens, water will back
up under the shingles and find its
way into your home. This can cause
damage if it is not corrected.
|
These materials can be used together to get the same insulation value. For example,
if you have 3-1/2” of fiberglass batt already in your attic and want to blow in cellulose
insulation here’s how to figure out how thick it needs to be to equal R-38:
An important note if you have knob and tube wiring in your attic. It is not
recommended to add insulation over this type of wiring because it could cause a fire
hazard. Please check with an electrical contractor before adding insulation with this
type of wiring!
Attic Ventilation
OK. You’ve checked your vapor barrier, filled any leaking holes, and your insulation
is the proper depth. There is one last thing to do. Make sure your attic has the
proper ventilation! Now this may appear to be a little goofy, but it is very important!
While you are in your attic, have someone turn on your bathroom and kitchen
exhaust fans. Nothing should be exhausting directly into your attic! If they are, these
exhaust fans will need to be re-routed so they direct the exhaust air directly to the
outside of your home.
There are many ways to ventilate your attic. The most common methods are:
You will need square foot of free vent area for every 300 square feet of attic space.
One half of this free ventilation area should be on the high side of the attic and the
remainder this free ventilation area should be on the high side of the attic and the
remainder should be on the low side of the attic. If you need help please contact a
reputable roofing contractor.
Snow and Ice Barrier
If you have a new roof installed, make sure your roofing contractor includes the
installation of a snow and ice barrier as part of the project. It is an impermeable
membrane that is installed from the edge of the roof and extends up three to four
feet from your gutters. This will prevent any water that may get under the shingles
from penetrating the roof deck.
Winter can be a challenging time of the year for our homes in our northern climate.
Knowing what causes ice dams and recognizing their formation can help you
overcome the problems they can cause. There are many factors that need to come
together to cause an ice dam and there is no good way to predict them. The moisture
content of the snow, weather conditions, the energy efficiency of the home and how
each family sets their thermostats all can contribute to this problem.
if you have 3-1/2” of fiberglass batt already in your attic and want to blow in cellulose
insulation here’s how to figure out how thick it needs to be to equal R-38:
- 3-1/2” x 3.14 = R-11 (This calculates the R-Value of the existing insulation)
- R-38 – R-11 = R-27 (This calculates the additional R-Value you will need to
get R-38) - R-27 / 3.13 = 8.62” (This calculates the thickness of Blown in Cellulose you will
need) - That means to get an R-38 equivalent, you would need to add about 9 inches
of blown in cellulose insulation.
An important note if you have knob and tube wiring in your attic. It is not
recommended to add insulation over this type of wiring because it could cause a fire
hazard. Please check with an electrical contractor before adding insulation with this
type of wiring!
Attic Ventilation
OK. You’ve checked your vapor barrier, filled any leaking holes, and your insulation
is the proper depth. There is one last thing to do. Make sure your attic has the
proper ventilation! Now this may appear to be a little goofy, but it is very important!
While you are in your attic, have someone turn on your bathroom and kitchen
exhaust fans. Nothing should be exhausting directly into your attic! If they are, these
exhaust fans will need to be re-routed so they direct the exhaust air directly to the
outside of your home.
There are many ways to ventilate your attic. The most common methods are:
- Roof Vents (Square shaped things cut into your roof near the peak)
- Ridge Vents (A long vent made from various materials that is installed where
two roof surfaces meet at the top of the home)
You will need square foot of free vent area for every 300 square feet of attic space.
One half of this free ventilation area should be on the high side of the attic and the
remainder this free ventilation area should be on the high side of the attic and the
remainder should be on the low side of the attic. If you need help please contact a
reputable roofing contractor.
Snow and Ice Barrier
If you have a new roof installed, make sure your roofing contractor includes the
installation of a snow and ice barrier as part of the project. It is an impermeable
membrane that is installed from the edge of the roof and extends up three to four
feet from your gutters. This will prevent any water that may get under the shingles
from penetrating the roof deck.
Winter can be a challenging time of the year for our homes in our northern climate.
Knowing what causes ice dams and recognizing their formation can help you
overcome the problems they can cause. There are many factors that need to come
together to cause an ice dam and there is no good way to predict them. The moisture
content of the snow, weather conditions, the energy efficiency of the home and how
each family sets their thermostats all can contribute to this problem.
Check your Gutters!
If you didn't get around to cleaning your gutters in the fall
you may be paying for that now. Blocked or clogged gutters
and downspouts can cause water to freeze faster than it
would if your gutters were clean.
If you didn't get around to cleaning your gutters in the fall
you may be paying for that now. Blocked or clogged gutters
and downspouts can cause water to freeze faster than it
would if your gutters were clean.
Snow is an Insulator
will trap any heat escaping from your home on the underside. There are several
tries. Your roof will also heat up from the sun causing the snow to melt. The darker
the roof's color, the hotter it will become.
The first thing you should do is to try to get as much snow off the first 4 to 6 feet from
your eves as safely as possible using a roof rake. These are long, light-weight rakes
that can be extended to reach to your roof from the ground. Do not climb on ladders
or attempt to climb onto your roof. Ice is very slippery and whether you walk on it or
set your ladder on it, the odds are it won’t move, you will!
Safety First!
Now a little something about using a roof rake. Make sure you wear some protective
gear including safety glasses, gloves, a good thick coat and something around your
neck. A hard hat isn’t a bad idea either. You can purchase them at any home
improvement store. Remember, you will be pulling the snow off the roof and more
than likely you will be standing right under it! This snow may contain the ice dam and
that can be very dangerous if you get hit by it. Follow all the directions that come with
the rake and make sure you have a clear path behind you in case you need to get
out of the way in a hurry!
Heated Roof and Gutter Cables
If the ice is too thick and won’t come down, don’t try chipping it off. You will cause
more damage to your roof and shingles! There are some alternate ways to get the
ice to melt. One method is to install a heated gutter and roof cable to keep the ice
from forming as a solid block. This can be installed over an existing roof and gutter
system and plugs into your home’s electrical system. The cable should extend into
your gutters and through your downspouts to keep an open path for the melting
snow to travel. You may need to hire an electrician if you do not have exterior
receptacles handy. You will want to follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions
and using long extension cords are not recommended.
Ice Melt
Another method involves using a nylon stocking and professional ice melt. This type
of product uses magnesium chloride, potassium chloride, and/or calcium chloride as
the active ingredient. I would not recommend using sodium chloride (rock salt)
because it may accelerate the corrosion of your aluminum or galvanized gutters. Fill
a long nylon stocking with the ice melting product and tie off the end. The trick is to
get it onto your roof perpendicular to your gutter over the ice. This will melt a channel
into the ice dam allowing the water above it to flow right on through. You may need to
place several of these socks every three to six feet apart if you have a long ice dam
on your roof. Make sure your gutters are as clean as possible so the water will have
a place to go.
Hot Water or Steam
It is possible to use a hose with hot water to melt the snow and ice off the roof. This
should only be done if and ice dam has formed but it isn't leaking. Adding more water
to your leaking roof will only cause more problems!
Trip to the Attic
A good way to prevent ice dams from forming and at the same time save your
heating dollars is to take a trip into your attic. You attic space is an important part of
your home. Maintaining this area can also save you money. Besides holding up your
roof, your attic contains your insulation and ventilation systems that are just as
important. If these are lacking, ice dams can be the result.
Vapor Barrier
Under your insulation you should find a vapor barrier. New homes use plastic. Older
homes usually had paper that was attached to the first layer of insulation. Some very
old homes didn’t have a vapor barrier at all. A vapor barrier helps to keep your warm
moist air from leaking into your attic. You should only find one vapor barrier and that
should be against the “warm side” of the attic space. This means it should be on top
of the ceiling. If there is more than one, or the vapor barrier is facing the wrong
direction, problems can occur. Moisture can get trapped between the layers and the
insulation can become wet. If this happens, it no longer is insulating your home and
can be a spot where mold could start growing. It would be best to correct this problem
yourself or hire an insulation expert to give you an estimate for repairs.
Seal Gaps and Cracks
You will want to make sure that all holes to your home are properly sealed. Warm air
can escape in many ways and making sure your attic is sealed to any living space
definitely helps. You also want to make sure any heating or cooling ducts exposed in
your attic are sealed and have a minimum of R-5 insulation wrapping them. A good
product to use is called “Great Stuff.” It comes in an aerosol can and expands many
times to seal gaps around your chimney, wiring, sill plates, etc. A couple of things to
remember are, you only want to seal spaces leading to your living areas and you don’
t want to seal any recessed lighting fixtures (called cans). In fact, it is important to
make sure you don’t have any insulation covering these cans because earlier models
aren’t designed to be covered and can overheat if they are covered.
Insulate
After the vapor barrier has been checked and any holes leading to your living space
have been sealed, you should make sure you have enough insulation in your attic.
Wisconsin recommends a minimum R-38 or equivalent. Click here for a calculator to
help you determine your needs. That means you should have the following
thicknesses depending upon the insulation material used:
will trap any heat escaping from your home on the underside. There are several
tries. Your roof will also heat up from the sun causing the snow to melt. The darker
the roof's color, the hotter it will become.
The first thing you should do is to try to get as much snow off the first 4 to 6 feet from
your eves as safely as possible using a roof rake. These are long, light-weight rakes
that can be extended to reach to your roof from the ground. Do not climb on ladders
or attempt to climb onto your roof. Ice is very slippery and whether you walk on it or
set your ladder on it, the odds are it won’t move, you will!
Safety First!
Now a little something about using a roof rake. Make sure you wear some protective
gear including safety glasses, gloves, a good thick coat and something around your
neck. A hard hat isn’t a bad idea either. You can purchase them at any home
improvement store. Remember, you will be pulling the snow off the roof and more
than likely you will be standing right under it! This snow may contain the ice dam and
that can be very dangerous if you get hit by it. Follow all the directions that come with
the rake and make sure you have a clear path behind you in case you need to get
out of the way in a hurry!
Heated Roof and Gutter Cables
If the ice is too thick and won’t come down, don’t try chipping it off. You will cause
more damage to your roof and shingles! There are some alternate ways to get the
ice to melt. One method is to install a heated gutter and roof cable to keep the ice
from forming as a solid block. This can be installed over an existing roof and gutter
system and plugs into your home’s electrical system. The cable should extend into
your gutters and through your downspouts to keep an open path for the melting
snow to travel. You may need to hire an electrician if you do not have exterior
receptacles handy. You will want to follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions
and using long extension cords are not recommended.
Ice Melt
Another method involves using a nylon stocking and professional ice melt. This type
of product uses magnesium chloride, potassium chloride, and/or calcium chloride as
the active ingredient. I would not recommend using sodium chloride (rock salt)
because it may accelerate the corrosion of your aluminum or galvanized gutters. Fill
a long nylon stocking with the ice melting product and tie off the end. The trick is to
get it onto your roof perpendicular to your gutter over the ice. This will melt a channel
into the ice dam allowing the water above it to flow right on through. You may need to
place several of these socks every three to six feet apart if you have a long ice dam
on your roof. Make sure your gutters are as clean as possible so the water will have
a place to go.
Hot Water or Steam
It is possible to use a hose with hot water to melt the snow and ice off the roof. This
should only be done if and ice dam has formed but it isn't leaking. Adding more water
to your leaking roof will only cause more problems!
Trip to the Attic
A good way to prevent ice dams from forming and at the same time save your
heating dollars is to take a trip into your attic. You attic space is an important part of
your home. Maintaining this area can also save you money. Besides holding up your
roof, your attic contains your insulation and ventilation systems that are just as
important. If these are lacking, ice dams can be the result.
Vapor Barrier
Under your insulation you should find a vapor barrier. New homes use plastic. Older
homes usually had paper that was attached to the first layer of insulation. Some very
old homes didn’t have a vapor barrier at all. A vapor barrier helps to keep your warm
moist air from leaking into your attic. You should only find one vapor barrier and that
should be against the “warm side” of the attic space. This means it should be on top
of the ceiling. If there is more than one, or the vapor barrier is facing the wrong
direction, problems can occur. Moisture can get trapped between the layers and the
insulation can become wet. If this happens, it no longer is insulating your home and
can be a spot where mold could start growing. It would be best to correct this problem
yourself or hire an insulation expert to give you an estimate for repairs.
Seal Gaps and Cracks
You will want to make sure that all holes to your home are properly sealed. Warm air
can escape in many ways and making sure your attic is sealed to any living space
definitely helps. You also want to make sure any heating or cooling ducts exposed in
your attic are sealed and have a minimum of R-5 insulation wrapping them. A good
product to use is called “Great Stuff.” It comes in an aerosol can and expands many
times to seal gaps around your chimney, wiring, sill plates, etc. A couple of things to
remember are, you only want to seal spaces leading to your living areas and you don’
t want to seal any recessed lighting fixtures (called cans). In fact, it is important to
make sure you don’t have any insulation covering these cans because earlier models
aren’t designed to be covered and can overheat if they are covered.
Insulate
After the vapor barrier has been checked and any holes leading to your living space
have been sealed, you should make sure you have enough insulation in your attic.
Wisconsin recommends a minimum R-38 or equivalent. Click here for a calculator to
help you determine your needs. That means you should have the following
thicknesses depending upon the insulation material used:
Think about a river that's moving very slowly. Fast moving
water doesn't freeze as quickly as water that isn't moving. If
you have leaves, sticks, toys, or other things in your gutter
water will not move very quickly and freeze. It's important to
check and clean your gutters at least twice per year.
water doesn't freeze as quickly as water that isn't moving. If
you have leaves, sticks, toys, or other things in your gutter
water will not move very quickly and freeze. It's important to
check and clean your gutters at least twice per year.
A suggestion offered to us by our friend Dave Meyer would be to paint your gutters
black. Darker colors absorb more of the sun's energy helping to melt the snow. Be
sure to talk with your significant other before trying this one!
black. Darker colors absorb more of the sun's energy helping to melt the snow. Be
sure to talk with your significant other before trying this one!
Other indicators could be a build-up of snow in valleys of your roof is
a good chance you have an ice dam. It would be a good time to
Other indicators could be a build-up of snow in valleys of your roof
wet stains on your rafters.when the rest of the roof is bare. If you see
a condition like this one it
a good chance you have an ice dam. It would be a good time to
Other indicators could be a build-up of snow in valleys of your roof
wet stains on your rafters.when the rest of the roof is bare. If you see
a condition like this one it
addressed, the water will eventually find its way into your
home.addressed, the water will eventually find its way into your home.
home.addressed, the water will eventually find its way into your home.
Click to Enlarge
Click to Enlarge
Click to Enlarge
You may even see stains in the ceiling. When this happens, you
know there is a problem. The source of the leak may not be
obvious. Water will run downhill and the leak may not be directly
above the stains.
know there is a problem. The source of the leak may not be
obvious. Water will run downhill and the leak may not be directly
above the stains.
| Updated: 6/12/08 |
 |  |  |  |  |  |  |
| Copyright © 2006-2008 4-Square Home Inspections, LLC Sheboygan, WI All Rights Reserved |
| CALL or E-mail (920) 451-4646 I'm available Daily from 8 am to 9 pm |
please fill out our Contact Us Form or give us a call at (920) 451-4646. We would be
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happy to serve you!