This is a typical finished installation of the sump pump. In this
picture you will see the covered sump crock, the discharge
pipe, and the check valve. The pump is plugged into a
dedicated receptacle located near the crock. This is very
important. You should not use this receptacle for any other
use except for a battery back-up system! If you do, you could
risk overloading the circuit causing the breaker to trip. If
there is no power supplied to your pump, it would quit
working. If you need additional circuits, hire an electrician to
install them for you. Remember, your sump pump helps
protect your from basement flooding!
If your home is equipped with a sump pump, there usually is a good reason for it. The
purpose of a sump pump is to collect water from around your foundation and redirect it
away from your foundation. If it fails, you could end up with thousands of dollars of
damage, potential foundation failures, and even mold problems if your basement floods.
There is another type of pump that you may find in your basement called a sewage lift
pump. This is a sealed system that is used if the soil stack to the municipal sewer system
or your septic system is higher than the floor of your basement. We will not be
discussing this type of sump pump for the purpose of this article.
It Begins at the Foundation
The adjacent picture shows a foundation under construction.
There is drain pipe installed under the gravel around the
entire perimeter of the home. The blue arrows show the
drainage system location. If you look closely in the red circle,
you can see the drain pipe that enters the basement.
This drain pipe will be visible inside the sump crock when the
basement is finished.
You may find one of these two styles of pumps in your
home. The first one is a submersible. The entire pump and
motor fits under the cover. The pump is activated when the
crock fills with water and the float rises. Inside the float,
there is a switch that completes the circuit when it is in the
vertical position. The pump will continue to run until the
crock drains down and the float falls to the side. Make sure
the float can move freely. If it would get stuck, your pump
will not turn on or off like it should.




The second type of pump is called a pedestal. This pump
also has a float that looks similar to the one in a toilet. It’s
attached to a rod that sticks up through the cover of the
crock and is attached to a motor above. The pump is
located at the bottom of the crock. Occasionally, the cover
will get bumped and jam the rod. If this happens, the rod will
not be free to move up and down to turn the pump on and
off. If you have this style of pump, you should be able to
move the rod up and down freely to turn it on and off.
Check Valves
Most sump crocks are 24" in diameter. That means every
inch equals about 2 gallons of water. Most sump crocks
have a working range of about 20 gallons (10 inches).
Without a check valve and the discharge point outside your
home was 20 feet from the pump measured along the pipe,
your pump would discharge 20 gallons of water and get 2
gallons of water back. That’s losing 10% efficiency!
Look Outside!
It is important to keep the discharge point of your sump pump
as far from your foundation as possible. The minimum distance
should be 10 feet. Most discharge pipes have a flexible hose
non-freezing weather this works just fine.tightly attached to the
pipe coming from the basement. During


Automotive Anti-Freeze can be very hazardous to pets and small children!
The larger hose may be an eye-sore but it’s only for the winter months and it’s usually
covered with snow. For around $10, you can pick up 10 feet of this black drain hose.
Disconnect the smaller hose from the pipe that exits your home. Then fasten the larger
pipe with a piece of wire (a coat hanger works great) and a pipe clamp. This air gap is
important to allow the hose to drain before it freezes. We all know if we stick a straw
into a drink and hold the open end with our thumb the liquid will not drain out. The
same is true for your sump pump drain pipe. The air gap shown by the arrow will allow
any water to flow down the pipe and away from the foundation. Also, the larger
diameter hose is easier to keep clean if does get some ice in it.
Also, the hard pipe inside your home should be slightly higher than the exit point to
make sure the water fully drains each time your pump runs.
In spring, replace this hose with the one you normally use and everything should be
just fine.

Copyright © 2006-2009 4-Square Home Inspections, LLC Sheboygan, WI All Rights Reserved
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Battery Back-Up Systems
Starting around $250 a battery back-up pump is a good
idea to install in tandem with your current sump pump.
connected to a 12 volt marine type battery that is charged
by your home’s electrical system. In the event you lose
power, the battery back-up will take over and pump the
water out of the crock. If this would happen, an alarm
would sound to alert you the pump was activated due to a
power outage. This is a good idea to have if you have a
finished basement and want protection in case of a power
failure. This works well if you loose power for a few hours.
If the power is out for longer periods of time, there are
more expensive units available starting at $800.
Does it run Hourly, Daily, Weekly, or Monthly? The last
thing you should do is unplug your pump! A good discharge
point allowing a larger air gap at the top to allow the water
to drain away from your home before is can freeze. We do
not recommend using any chemicals in your crock. DO NOT
USE AUTOMOTIVE ANTI-FREEZE!!
Here's a situation at a home we inspected after heavy rains.
tightly connected to the PVC pipe exiting the home and was
There are several problems. The discharge hose was not
tightly connected to the PVC pipe exiting the home and was
leaking. The home owner put down a tarp when did little
good. There also was a low spot near the foundation and
the water had no where to go except...
...right back into the basement. Very small corrections can
make a big difference. Make sure to take a walk around
your home during a heavy rain. If you see pooling near the
foundation, corrections are necessary. A good slope is at
least a 6 inch drop over 10 feet away from your home.
There is a downfall to be aware of with this style of a pump. During periods when the
pump is very active, this type of pump's motor can get very hot. Even to the point
when it may fail to work. The submersible pump is naturally cooled by the water that
surrounds it in the crock. If your pump is very active, it is wise to always have a spare
pump on hand. Murphy's law says the pump will fail at 2 am when your favorite
plumbing supply store is closed!
Sump Pumps and How They Work
by: Greg Liebig
When the temperatures fall this discharge hose could freeze. If this happens, your
pump may turn on and the water will have no place to go. This could cause your pump
to dead-head. This will lead to the failure of the electric motor or even a potential fire
hazard. So make sure to periodically check your system during the winter months.
We hope you've found this article helpful! If you have any questions at (920) 451-4646. We would be happy to serve you!
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Greg Liebig, CIAQT Certified Home Inspector B.S. Mechanical Engineering WI License #1955-106
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Call (920) 451-4646 We're available Daily from 8 am to 9 pm
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